Features

Latest posts:

Inside Surfing’s Secret City

Posted June 14, 2017 by Dan Fitzpatrick

Kelly Slater’s wave pool is as much a mystery to his new neighbors in this small California town as it is to the rest of the world 
(more…)

Beyond Pipe: Where The Rest Of Us Can Surf

Posted December 4, 2016 by Dan Fitzpatrick

Surfing Pipeline is for experts only, said Hawaiian Water Patrol’s Brian Keaulana. It’s “like skiing down Mount Everest.” So where should the rest of us go? Keaulana, a surf safety expert, and Patrick Caldwell, a surf forecaster with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, offer advice on spots more appropriate for beginners or first-time visitors to Oahu.  Even these spots are not without their risks. (more…)

Beneath Pipeline

Posted by Dan Fitzpatrick

Brad Scarfe, who is part of a New Zealand crew that has studied surfing breaks since the late 90s for academic and protection purposes, charted Pipeline’s underwater turmoil using information gathered by NOAA and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. (more…)

Illustration by Xiao Hua Yang

The Hazards Of Hawaii

Posted by Dan Fitzpatrick

If you travel to Hawaii in search of surf there is a lot to know before you go. We asked Brian Keaulana of Hawaiian Water Patrol to identify common hazards that first timers overlook. Visitors, he said, frequently underestimate Hawaii’s dangers. “People are coming here to fulfill their fantasies and dreams and escape reality of everyday life. The warm weather, blue skies and rainbows. They see the beauty but don’t see the beast within the beauty.” (more…)

John John with flag

The Portuguese Pipeline

Posted by Dan Fitzpatrick

Those in the surfing world expected the 2016 world title race to conclude at Pipeline, a wave on the North Shore of Oahu that breaks in John John Florence’s backyard. Instead Florence was able to clinch his first crown more than 7,000 miles away, in southwest Europe. It happened on a Portuguese wave named “Supertubos” that produces Pipeline-sized tubes and breaks close to the beach, just as Pipeline does. Portuguese photographer Ricardo Santos Luis was there in the port town of Peniche to witness what happened. (more…)

A Rivalry In The Making

Posted by Dan Fitzpatrick

John John Florence and Gabriel Medina turned pro the same year. Now each has a world title, and neither is older than 25. Those who follow pro surfing expect the rivalry between the Hawaiian and the Brazilian to define pro surfing over the next decade. Here is how the two stack up.
(more…)

Tom Curren by Tom Servais

A Lucky Moment In Time

Posted by Dan Fitzpatrick

During the final months of 1991 Tom Servais captured two images that remain the best known Pipeline photos ever taken. One, of Australian Tom Carroll, came during the height of pro competition with hundreds watching. The other, of American Tom Curren, unfolded in the fading light of afternoon with few people around. Servais explains the circumstances surrounding the images and why they still resonate with surfers a quarter century later. Servais, now 63, is at Pipeline this winter for the 35th time, in search of more such moments.
(more…)

View from Volcom House

Gerry’s House

Posted by Dan Fitzpatrick

A short walk along the beach from Warren Harlow’s house will take you to what may be the most important address in surfing: 59-363 Ke Nui Road. (more…)

How To: The Pop Up

Posted by Dan Fitzpatrick

Getting to your feet is the most basic maneuver in surfing, yet for many beginners it can feel like an insurmountable obstacle. We asked Adam Dufner, an instructor affiliated with the Hurley Surf Club and Skudin Surf, for a tutorial. He suggested that anyone who is new to surfing follow these steps with a longer, more stable board. (more…)

How To: Picking The Proper Wetsuit

Posted by Dan Fitzpatrick

Knowing what wetsuit is appropriate for certain conditions can be confusing for anyone, especially beginners. So we asked Body Glove, which made its first wetsuit in 1953 using neoprene, an insulating material found in the back of refrigerators, to walk us through the basics. Wetsuit designer John Federoff was our guide. (more…)

Warren Harlow photo

Seeing Red

Posted by Dan Fitzpatrick

For more than half a century Warren Harlow has been watching Pipeline from his front porch, offering him a rare view of the wave’s potential for extreme violence. (more…)

Editor’s Note – The Pipeline Issue

Posted by Dan Fitzpatrick

Fear. It’s a central part of the surfing experience, even if it’s seldom acknowledged. From pros to beginners, all who enter the water know what it’s like to encounter a situation beyond their abilities. We hope to overcome our jitters in that moment. But how? (more…)

John John Florence

The Physical Demands Of Surfing

Posted by Dan Fitzpatrick

Surfers have a laid back reputation. But Physiologist Olivier Farley, who has a PhD in the science of surfing, has documented the extreme physical demands of the sport by studying what surfers do when they are out in the water. Surfers need lots of arm strength and aerobic endurance to perform repeated short powerful bouts of paddling as they position themselves in the water and catch waves at a crucial take off point. (more…)

A Trek Through Trestles

Posted December 3, 2016 by Dan Fitzpatrick

Thousands travel to Trestles each year to surf its world-class waves and experience one of the last untouched sections of southern California coastline. We asked California photographer Chris Ortiz to take a visual tour of this iconic American place. (more…)

Great Moments At Trestles

Posted by Dan Fitzpatrick

Many of pro surfing’s greatest moments occurred at Trestles. Illustrator Alvar Sirlin brings four to life. (more…)

Trestles Map - Sirlin

Editor’s Note – The Trestles Issue

Posted December 1, 2016 by Dan Fitzpatrick

Fifty miles north of San Diego is an expanse of ocean front, sand and cobblestones named after a railroad bridge. How did this spot, called “Trestles,” become the most important place to surf in the continental United States? We thought it would be fun to explore that question in this debut of Twenty, a magazine for anyone curious about the sport of surfing. (more…)

Illustration by Ignacio Serrano

Facing Pipeline

Posted November 28, 2016 by Dan Fitzpatrick

Eleven accomplished surfers recall their first encounters with the world’s most dangerous wave. (more…)

How Trestles Works

Posted November 21, 2016 by Dan Fitzpatrick

We asked Dr. Falk Feddersen to explain why Lower Trestles is one of the world’s great waves. Not only is he an oceanographer at Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UC San Diego, but he is a surfer who has paddled out at Trestles roughly 10 times. (more…)

Nixon illustration

Surfer in Chief

Posted November 18, 2016 by Dan Fitzpatrick

Why Richard Nixon Is Responsible for One of The World’s Greatest Waves (more…)

Onshore Workout

How To: Onshore Workout

Posted November 5, 2016 by Dan Fitzpatrick

Kevyn Dean of DSC Performance Physical Therapy and Fitness trains some of the best surfers on the professional world tour and serves as medical director for the USA Surf Team. We asked him to offer advice to beginners or casual surfers who are entering the water for the first time. He advises establishing proper movement and stability first. Dean says you can do the following exercises at home or as a warm up routine at the beach. Each step is meant to approximate different elements of the surfing experience. (more…)